1924 Cloche Hat advertisement
I love this stunning sketch of a fashionable flapper woman from the 1920s, beautifully rendered in an Art Nouveau-inspired frame. She’s shown wearing the quintessential cloche hat—one of the defining accessories of the Jazz Age. This particular illustration is part of an advertisement for Gaier Mirror Hats, a popular millinery based at 1221-1225 Washington Avenue in St. Louis, Missouri. The artistry of the ad encapsulates not only the chic appeal of the period but also the quiet innovation that cloche hats represented in women’s fashion during the roaring twenties.
The cloche hat, meaning “bell” in French, first gained popularity in the late 1910s, but by the mid-1920s, it had become a must-have accessory for modern women. Designed to fit closely around the head, embracing the shape of short, bobbed hairstyles common in this time, it was both functional and stylish—perfect for the liberated spirit of the ‘20s. With its sleek and streamlined silhouette, the cloche hat contrasted sharply with the wide-brimmed hats of earlier decades and became a symbol of the new, forward-thinking woman. Gaier Mirror Hats, the brand featured in this vintage ad, was undoubtedly part of this cultural shift, helping St. Louis women embrace the sleek sophistication of the time.
St. Louis, in the 1920s, was a cultural hub and a stylish city on the rise, with Washington Avenue serving as an epicenter of fashion and retail. Sometimes referred to as the “Garment District of the Midwest,” Washington Avenue boasted upscale milliners, clothiers, and department stores, catering to the stylish modern woman. Businesses like Gaier Mirror Hats thrived in this bustling area, offering high-quality fashion accessories to keep up with the burgeoning demand for trendy, yet practical, designs. The cloche hat fit this bill perfectly, offering an elegant headpiece that complemented flapper-like fashions while maintaining an air of metropolitan sophistication.
The next page of this vintage advertisement booklet provides a text-only ad for Lees Brothers Inc., located nearby at 1209 Washington Avenue—a testament to the tight-knit fashion scene developing in St. Louis at the time. By advertising alongside Gaier Mirror Hats, Lees Brothers Inc. reflects the competitive spirit of the local fashion industry, which aimed to carve out its influence alongside other major U.S. fashion centers like New York and Chicago.
Flipping through these old magazine pages, one is struck by the aesthetic sensibilities of the period: clean lines of Art Deco mingling with the romantic swirls of Art Nouveau, a visual metaphor for a society straddling tradition and modernity. The role of the cloche hat, however, went beyond mere aesthetics—it was practical for active lifestyles. As women embraced new freedoms like driving cars and participating in sports (aided by clothing that allowed more movement), the tightly-fitting cloche wasn’t just trendy; it was functional, staying secure even during vigorous activity.
This advertisement paints a vivid picture of St. Louis in 1924, showcasing its participation in larger cultural and fashion trends sweeping the nation. With brands like Gaier Mirror Hats leading the charge, the city contributed significantly to the spread of flapper fashion and the emergence of the bold, independent women who defined the era.
As you admire this timeless sketch of a 1920s flapper in her cloche hat, it’s fascinating to think about the role St. Louis played in shaping women’s everyday fashion and its connection to the cultural shifts of the decade. From the pages of an old magazine to today, this ad offers a window into a dynamic world where fashion, function, and feminine identity converged during one of the most transformative eras in history.
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