Here is an interesting history of tobacco advertisements using pretty women and pinups as bait, and to gain broader social acceptance of smoking cigarettes! To explain changes in tobacco advertising, you have to take a historical perspective, which this article explains best. Briefly the history of tobacco ads (according to this 1953 article):
Here are shown some lingerie and shapewear ads from the 1800s-1950s. The chemise replaced the corset cover by 1918, although shape wear was still worn in the 1920s to achieve that stylish “boyish” form. The inflatable bra of the 1950s replaced the “Victoria” bosom pad of 1879… such changes in lingerie styles and advertisements!
THIS is a very interesting article about how politics and politicians shaped women’s fashions during the first half of the 20th century. The early feminist movement asked for many changes, among them suffrage, easy divorce, property laws, and equal education. This resulted in a fashion trends that were mannish, including the no-curves, flat chested, flapper girl of the 1920s. This article goes on to call Victoria Claflin Woodhull a “political freak” (who ran for presidency in 1872), and pacifist Jeanette Rankin whose only winning two terms in congress corresponded with declarations of war (1917 and 1941). The caption under Woodhull says that she ran on a free love ticket.
“It’s the inevitable cycle…. in 1910 it was the bust, and cleavage went down to the limit. In the 1920s the sex emphasis was on the legs. In the 1930s it veered to the back and posterior. In the 1940s it concentrated on the bust again. And now we are back to the bottom.”
hoopskirts to bathing suits, this Cheesecake Pinup magazine takes a look at the history of sexual innuendo in humor and media.
One of the first cartoons is from the 1860s, showing the wind blowing up a dress to reveal the hoopskirt underneath and (gasp) the sexyness of the woman’s ankels! Then came the peepshows in the Kinetoscopes of the 1890s (as examples are The Bedroom Farce, and a womens’ wrestling). Then, the late 1890s cinema came along, and in the early 1900s, Hollywood and the Keystone comedies and the scantily clad “big names wearing too little” and sensual Femme Fatale Movie Stars of the 1920s…
It’s interesting to see the types of skirts, sleeves, and sportswear illustrated and defined! Hopefully this helps you in identifying and describing vintage clothing… I can’t help but read thru this fashion dictionary and learn as I scan and post these pages!
Different types of coats, illustrated and defined. These include the Box Coat of the 1930s, the Blouse coat of the 1920s, coachmens’ coats, 17th century buffcoat, coolie coat, Balmacaan, Duster early 1900s, Raglan coat, Women’s Cutaway Coat, MacFarlane, and more types of coats.
These pages also cover different types of coifs and collars, including the Bertha collar of the 1920s, the Chin Collar of 1916, and the Buster Brown collar.
Here are some ideas on finishing edges and making attractive collars. Illustrated and described are Venetian Lace collars, “new look” collars (which foretell the later 1920s “art deco” look), elaborate frills on a collar, an antique Hebedo design, simple shirtwaist collars and cuffs, and dainty needlework designs on collars.
The next page is full of instructions on how to hand make punched work on scrim, covered in darning, to give the effect of openwork embroidery. Pictured on this page are lingerie pillows, peacock motifs, a chair back design, and edging. Great inspiration and instructions!
More fashion illustrations of what men and boys wore in the 1920s! It’s funny to see that ties were in fashion, for men and boys, and boys wore knickers. 5 pages of advertisements for mens and boys fashions from the 1924 St. Louis Fashion Pageant:
This starts out with a full page ad for The Snugset Clothes Company, which has an illustration of a fashionable man in a suit and alot of text (Men’s clothes that wear as well as they look!). Lion Hats by Langenberg Hat Co lets the picture do the talking. Bettmann-KleinHause Clothing Company (at 1204 Washington Ave.) has a full two page advertisement spread illustrating men and boys, and having on display: men’s suits, men’s overcoats, children’s suits, children’s knee pants, young men’s overcoats, young men’s suits, men’s and young men’s pants, and more.
This ad is trying to sell the prospective business owner into starting a variety department or general store, and offers assistance with arrangement of merchandise, advertising (sale plans, newspaper advertising, and more), displays, merchandising (help with product markup, selection, and how to make a profit), office (how to keep books, and a control system that prevents over-buying), management (training your clerks, how to inventory, etc.,), and more!
Here are 2 miscellaneous advertisement pages from the 1924 Fashion Pageant that I just scanned. They contain ads for Dolls, Toys, & Holiday Goods at Fabricius Mercantile Company, American Lady Bobbed Hair Nets, Ladies Linene Dresses (stamped flat for embroidery), Stein-Poulson Manufacturing Company Trimmed Hats, Bertha Hat Company, and Wardle Company (Ribbons, Laces, and Neckwear).
7 shoe advertisement scans from 1924. Business to business marketing for shoe manufacturers in St. Louis, and old advertisements for shoes!