Brief History of McKays Shoes

As I continued digging through vintage advertisements, specifically those related to shoe companies in St. Louis, I kept stumbling across something interesting: the name “McKays,” often written as “novelty McKays” shoes. At first, I assumed McKays was the name of a brand, but as I dove deeper into the history of footwear, it turned out that wasn’t quite the case. What I unearthed is fascinating—it opened a window not just into shoes, but into the technological and industrial history of how footwear was made during the early 20th century.

The term “McKays” actually refers to a certain type of shoe manufacturing process, rather than a specific brand. These shoes were created using machines patented and leased by the United Shoe Machinery Company, a major player in the American shoe industry at the time. The history behind McKays Shoes is deeply intertwined with both this company and the technological advancements that fundamentally reshaped shoemaking.

The Origins of McKays Shoes and Machinery

The story begins with the founding of the United Shoe Machinery Company (USMC) in 1899. This company emerged from the merger of three prominent entities: the Goodyear Machinery Company, the Consolidated Hand Lasting Machine Company, and the McKay Shoe Machinery Company. The latter organization was named for its founder, Gordon McKay, a 19th-century mechanical engineer and inventor who revolutionized shoemaking with specialized sewing machines.

Before companies like USMC came onto the scene, shoemaking was a labor-intensive process, largely done by hand. Each step—cutting, stitching, shaping—was time-consuming, requiring highly skilled artisans. McKay’s sewing machine changed this by introducing a patented process that allowed shoes to be rapidly stitched with stronger seams. His work was so transformational that it became a central foundation for USMC’s product line.

USMC didn’t just sell its machines outright—they leased them to manufacturers. This business model made it easier for smaller shoe companies to enter the industry, as leasing greatly reduced their initial investment costs. Leasing also gave USMC unprecedented control over the market, as it retained the rights to maintain, upgrade, and service the machines. This system allowed USMC to dominate the shoe manufacturing industry for decades, creating what essentially became a monopoly—one that was eventually broken up in the late 1940s following antitrust lawsuits.

The Popularity of McKays Shoes

By the 1920s, McKays shoes were increasingly common, particularly in areas like St. Louis, where the footwear market was thriving. St. Louis had a long history of shoe manufacturing, with companies customizing their designs and marketing strategies to attract local customers. The term “McKays” often appeared in advertisements as a way to highlight the innovative stitching process used to make these shoes. It’s worth noting that McKays weren’t a unique aesthetic design or trend, but rather a manufacturing label that denoted that the shoes were made using USMC-leased machines.

Two notable St. Louis manufacturers—John Meier Shoe Company and Capitol Shoemakers—produced McKays shoes in 1924, and both advertised heavily to distinguish their products and appeal to a wide range of customers. The manufacturers took full advantage of the McKay process to create sturdy, well-sewn shoes, while also personalizing styles, patterns, and materials to entice buyers. Customers, keen on both durability and style, eagerly purchased these shoes, which promised a balance of high-quality craftsmanship and modern innovation.

A Sign of Larger Changes in the Industry

What makes McKays shoes all the more interesting is the broader context of the industrial revolution in shoemaking. The creation of machines like those developed under USMC’s patents represented a seismic shift in how shoes were produced. Footwear was moving from custom, artisan-based crafting to mass production, where factories could churn out thousands of shoes faster and at lower costs than ever before.

While this industrial shift allowed for greater access to affordable footwear, it also came with its challenges. USMC’s monopoly over the industry meant manufacturers were forced into leasing agreements that gave the company enormous influence over their operations. This control led to the company’s first run-in with antitrust legislation in 1913, in which the courts initially ruled in favor of United Shoe Machinery Company. However, it signaled growing legal and public dissatisfaction with monopolistic practices in the industry. By the late 1940s, the government succeeded in dividing USMC’s holdings and breaking up its stronghold.

The Decline of Domestic Manufacturing

By the mid-20th century, the shoemaking industry in the US began to decline. The 1960s saw much of shoe production shifting overseas to Asian countries, where cheaper labor and manufacturing costs made production far more affordable. This marked the decline of local shoe companies that had once flourished in places like St. Louis. The term “McKays” began to fade from prominence as the era of USMC dominance and domestic mass production became a thing of the past.

Links to Harvard and a Lasting Legacy

An interesting footnote in the McKay story is its connection to Harvard University. Gordon McKay, the original inventor and industrialist, never saw his innovations create the massive industrial shift that arose decades later. Upon his death, McKay left his fortune of $16 million (a staggering amount when adjusted for inflation—a gift worth hundreds of millions today) to Harvard University. This gift helped to fund numerous programs at the university, creating a legacy that still endures in the modern era.

McKays Shoes as a Snapshot of History

While McKays shoes may not have been a specific brand, they serve as an excellent historical snapshot of the dynamic changes occurring in the shoe industry during the early 20th century. The seamless fusion of technology, commerce, and local culture helped shape the world of fashion we know today.

In St. Louis, manufacturers like John Meier Shoe Company and Capitol Shoemakers adapted to the times by reimagining how footwear was marketed and manufactured. The advertisements, as seen in the vintage collection from 1924, provide a glimpse into the past—an era where industrial ingenuity met artistry in ways that defined modern shoemaking.

For those curious about the advertising and historical context, here are some links to further explore:

• The first antitrust case involving United Shoe Machinery Company (1913)
• History of United Shoe Machinery Company and its roots in Beverly, Massachusetts
• Harvard University’s link to McKays and Gordon McKay’s legacy
• Decades in Shoes: General history of shoemaking in the 1920s

McKays shoes and their advertisements offer more than just style—they capture a pivotal moment in history when shoemaking transitioned from art to scalable industry through innovation.