1880s going away dress outside

Once I dressed my model in this 1880s bustle dress, I didn’t want to let her go! The weather was absolutely perfect that day, so we decided to take the opportunity to shoot some outdoor fashion photos at Carondelet Park in St. Louis. The location itself has its own fascinating history—though the boathouse was built in 1918 and the pergolas in the 1930s, the stunning vintage setting paired perfectly with the timeless elegance of this more-than-150-year-old dress.

The dress, representative of mid-1880s bustle fashion, was a true masterpiece — even without the proper corset, petticoats, slips, or a bustle cage that would have been essential to achieving the era’s signature silhouette, the garment came to life. The bustle dress, which first rose to prominence in the late 1860s and dominated women’s fashion through much of the 1880s, marked a striking shift in Victorian style. It emphasized elaborate decorations, vivid textiles, and most importantly, the iconic exaggerated fullness at the back of the skirt.

This particular dress looked like it had walked straight out of a mid-1880s fashion plate. In fact, many of its elements echo styles captured in the 1884 and 1885 collections of original Victorian fashion illustrations, where bustles had reached their most dramatic silhouette. Dresses of this era were often handmade, which gave each piece its own regional or personal nuances. The craftsmanship that went into this piece of historical fashion was awe-inspiring, and knowing its significance made me feel both nervous and honored to photograph it.

A Fashion Moment in Steamboat-Era St. Louis

The 1880s’ design sensibilities were heavily influenced by the industrial advancements of the period, which allowed for intricate designs and fashionable textiles at more affordable prices for the upper and middle classes. Bustle dresses like this one were part of the grander, highly flamboyant fashion movement of the time, which saw women decked out in layers of patterned fabrics, ornate trims, ruffled edges, and intricate details—features that this gown displayed beautifully in its preserved state.

This dress also evokes a sense of history intrinsic to St. Louis itself during the 1880s, a hub of industrialization and exploding steamboat commerce along the Mississippi River. Known as the “Gateway to the West,” the city was bustling with social gatherings, riverfront activities, and wealth tied to trade. Women from well-to-do families often flaunted dresses like this at events such as afternoon strolls, tea parties, or “going away” ceremonies following weddings.

Standing in Carondelet Park—the dress swaying gently in the breeze—it looked as though she had stepped right out of a painting of steamboats docked on the Mississippi in the height of the Victorian era. The boathouse and surrounding early 20th-century architecture created a picturesque backdrop that let the essence of the dress shine. Fashion from this time often reflected the grandeur of its surroundings, and the intricate style of the 1880s captured that grandeur perfectly.

Revisiting the Day through Art and Photography

As I sifted through the photos a few years later, I found myself filled with awe once again. The fullness of the skirt combined with the structured tailoring exuded sophistication, even without the full supporting undergarments from the period. I was struck by how effortlessly the dress transformed the model into a vision from another time. Photography remains a powerful way to connect to the past, and I was so grateful to preserve the memory of this stunning piece. Yet, the original images inspired me to go one step further—I decided to create a piece of Photoshop art to further blend the contemporary setting with its historical counterpart.

Using an 1880s steamboat photograph, I replaced the modern lake and houses in the image’s background for a more era-appropriate setting. While the final piece displays clear inconsistencies in toning—my eyes blurred toward the end of the editing process—the effort captured the story I wanted the image to tell. Every element of the dress and the artistic process reminded me of the meticulous care Victorian women put into constructing and showcasing their fashion.

The Enduring Influence of 1880s Bustle Fashions

Studying the photos and researching the dress deepened my appreciation for this transformative era in fashion. The mid-1880s represented a turning point in Victorian dress, as the natural form trend from 1878–1883 gave way to the return of the exaggerated bustle we see here. This second phase of bustle fashion (1883–1889) brought back the grandiosity of earlier designs, but with a distinct refinement. Skirts grew increasingly structured, folds of fabric were carefully layered to create drama, and bodices accentuated a nipped-in waist. All these elements were reflected beautifully in this dress, which, despite more than a century of age, retained its timeless charm.

The photoshoot was exhausting, but the dress—and its history—made it all worth it. I felt an immense sense of responsibility handling such a delicate yet powerful piece of history. And even though my model, Tiffany, was tired by the end of the day, neither of us wanted to stop. It was truly a privilege to work with such a well-preserved garment representing the 1880s’ vibrant cultural and stylistic identity.

The past came alive during that photoshoot, just as it does every time I revisit these photos. Victorians of the 1880s designed fashions that captured their love of beauty, progress, and elegance. Seeing that history in action through this dress truly made the experience unforgettable.